If its relatively hard to precieve that its "warmer" then yes, you can increase the charging rate.
Almost all cells will be able to take up to 1.5A. Anything smaller than a AA should be charged at 1.0A or less. If you're charging a "Big Battery" Sub C cells, you can go up to 2.0A - 2.5A or even 3.0A. You can even push 5.0A through a HIGH QUALITY battery with out any worries, cheaper cells is a gamble.
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Is it a new battery? If it is, I actually suggest half the amperage, it'll take twice the time to do it but at least you get 'stretch out' your batteries (i.e. it doesnt get shocked with a high amperage at once).
Once I have cycled the batteries through 10 times (charge, use, repeat) I hit it up with the its amp rating (i.e. 1amp charge for an 1100mAh).
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Will an NicCd battery be ok if you discharge it all the way with a smart charger, and let it charge back up? Or is it bad to leave an NicCd fully charged for days at a time? I'm confused as to how they work.
Will an NicCd battery be ok if you discharge it all the way with a smart charger, and let it charge back up? Or is it bad to leave an NicCd fully charged for days at a time? I'm confused as to how they work.
Please re-read the first post in this thread. All of your questions are answered there :)
Oh alright I get it now. With the Cd's, just be sure to fully discharge them before recharging them at all. But they can be left fully charged without a problem. Cool deal. Just missed that detail when I was combing through it.
A new interest has caught my eye: Lithium Polymer Batteries. They come in different amp output. The lowest I saw were at 17amp output. Would this be sufficient? Max burst amp rating was rated at 27, constant at 20.
For a few coins more, there was one at 26amp output, 42amps max burst and 31amps constant.
The batteries are reasonably priced but the charger+balancer combo can be a pain.
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I am in the process of switching over to a LiPo in my gun. Most people I talk to say that a battery with a 15C output is best for airsoft. The amp output depends on the voltage and capacity of the pack. A 20C pack will also work well.
I tried this and I wanted to make sure i'm right. 1200 mAh battery and a charger output of 250. That would be 4.8 hours? Which would be about 5 hours? That doesn't seem right as the manuel says 11 hours. But a question. My friend races RC cars that use basicly the same batteries, and they take 30 minutes to charge. Would I be able to use the batteries and charger for my airsoft gun?
RC packs and Airsoft packs are basically the same. Your friends charger has a higher output than your trickle charger, that is why it charges in ~30 min.
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i bought this gun about a year ago, and was wondering if overnight charging is bad for the batteries. it's what i've done for every game i've been to, and i haven't had a problem. i discharge using a homemade lightbulb discharger tha's set up for large. i put paperclips in the output jacks to "convert" it. i know that was pretty stupid, but it's better than nothing... right??? and i bought an extra 8.4 mini, not sure which one, but does the nimh/nicd matter with the wall charger?? that's all.
My charger just started acting up the other day. When i plug my battery in to charge, normally a red light will come on meaning that the battery is charging. The other day when I plugged in my battery to charge, the light when on for only a second and then blinked off and it stopped charging. The battery was almost completely dead when I went to charge it and normally when the battery is done charging the light will turn green, but it didn't. The charger is in the link below:
Have you tried another battery on it? Sometimes your peak chargers don't like defective cells. You may try putting your pack on meter to see how many volts its putting out. 0v or worse -0v could be your problem.
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Quick question, exactly how hot should the battery get before I need to start cutting back on the recharge rate and worrying about cell damage?
Charging a 9.6v 1100mAH battery at about ~1.0A causes it to get a little warm. (You can hold it for about 2 seconds before you can tell that it's slightly warmer than when not being charged)
Would it be safe to ramp up to 1.5A?
I'm probably just being overly anal about this though.
I also had the same question, I have a Smart charger and when I charge my 8.4v battery on 0.9a it gets so hot you cant touch it without burning yourself, was I doing somthing wrong, should I be charging it on the 1.8a setting?
P.S. I didnt mean to take over your question zOMGREI, sorry if I did.
Have you tried another battery on it? Sometimes your peak chargers don't like defective cells. You may try putting your pack on meter to see how many volts its putting out. 0v or worse -0v could be your problem.
I don't think the problem is with my battery because my friend came over yesterday and my battery worked fine on his charger.
I also had the same question, I have a Smart charger and when I charge my 8.4v battery on 0.9a it gets so hot you cant touch it without burning yourself, was I doing somthing wrong, should I be charging it on the 1.8a setting?
P.S. I didnt mean to take over your question zOMGREI, sorry if I did.
When you charge your batteries, they should NEVER get so hot that you burn your self. At that point the cells begin to vent and if you continue to charge them they Explode.
Charging @ 1.8a only makes it worse if you're already charging at 0.9a
1.8a>0.9a Remember from Math class?
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When you charge your batteries, they should NEVER get so hot that you burn your self. At that point the cells begin to vent and if you continue to charge them they Explode.
Charging @ 1.8a only makes it worse if you're already charging at 0.9a
1.8a>0.9a Remember from Math class?
Yea, I just wasnt sure if charging it on the 1.8 setting would charge it faster, and if it did charge it faster maybe it wouldnt get so hot. But do you think it would work if I charged it about half way and when it started to warm up unplug it till it cooled, then hook it back up again to finish charging? Or would that just mess things up even more? Addtionally the battery did not come with a charger and the charger I am useing is the only one I have, would you suggest just getting a new charger for this battery even though it clearly states on the charger that its fine to charge 7.2-12v batteries?
Charging a battery at higher amps for a shorter amount of time can still damage your cells if it is STILL getting HOT.
1. What charger do you have?
2. What chemistry are the cells? NiMh / NiCd
3. What size are the cells? Mini or Large?
If you're using mini's you CAN'T push more than 1.0a throught them. If you're using mini's and you use 0.9a try charging at 0.5a or somewhere in between.
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Im new to aeg's and batteries but I have an RC car And a charger http://h1071118.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...p?prod=DYN4036 Will it charge airsoft batteries ? If it can then there is no use in buying another $30 charger right?
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Yes. RC's use the same type of charging gear and batteries. I have that very same charger, it will do just fine. That is a very good charger, It never falsed on me. Just keep in mind that when you charge your mini's use the 1.0a setting.
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It would be a resistor, capacitor=open circuit at dc.
the only real way to change voltage at DC is to use a voltage divider. This would require some soldering and components to complete. I could help design it for you if you want, i even have many of the components that may be used.
now that i think about it though, you may be able to cheat. because the drop you want is so small, if you were to connect a silicon diode in series with the charger, it would drop the voltage approximatly .7 volts. If you were to put 2 diodes in series, this would drop the voltage 1.4 volts to aprox 9.7 volts. the diodes also act as a DC short, so the current flow would be almost the same. The tricky part would be to make sure that the diodes can absorb the amount of power that you are dissipating across them.
anyways, if you give me some numbers, i might be able to help some more. battery internal resistance, and current output from the charger would be helpful
Last edited by Rommel315 : 05-21-2007 at 01:15 PM.
Charging a battery at higher amps for a shorter amount of time can still damage your cells if it is STILL getting HOT.
1. What charger do you have?
2. What chemistry are the cells? NiMh / NiCd
3. What size are the cells? Mini or Large?
If you're using mini's you CAN'T push more than 1.0a throught them. If you're using mini's and you use 0.9a try charging at 0.5a or somewhere in between.
This is the charger, the battery is NiMh and its a stick type. On CheapBattryPacks.com it says its 2/3A, im not sure if that is big or small.
This is the charger, the battery is NiMh and its a stick type. On CheapBattryPacks.com it says its 2/3A, im not sure if that is big or small.
2/3A is smaller than a Sub C, so you would consider it a Mini or Small.
I don't get what's up with that charger but I use the same cells and charge them at 1.0A and they get warm, not hot. I can't tell from the picture but "I think" it will charge NiMH batteries as well. Typically when you charge NiMH packs they get much hotter than your NiCd's but @ 0.9A its supposed to be fine with a 2/3A.
But yeah Im looking for something similar to #1. I really dont understand it, but from the graph I was looking it - the circuit seemed to pulse the voltage rather than output at a constant.
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Im actually not looking to change the voltage output from the charger to the battery, but the battery to the motor.
11.1v does nasty things to your piston and gears! :D
I AM SUCH A MORON!, totally misunderstood.
I dont think the DC converter is feasable, for a number of reasons, size, current characteristics of the gun etc.
EDIT: the DC to DC converter changes the DC voltage to AC so that the voltage value can be changed easily by means of a transformer. After it is run through the transformer, it is then rectified back to DC
Think of the airsoft gun circuit like this, you have a voltage source, a resistor and a load. the voltage source is the battery, the resistor is the sum of all resistances in the circuit (connection resistance, wire resistance, battery internal resistance, etc) and the load is the motor.
normally the idea is to get as voltage, and therefore power to the load as you possibly can. The voltage transmitted to the load is governed by the equation Vl=Vsrc*(Zl/Zl+Zr) where Vl is voltage load, Zl is load impedance, and Zr is the impedance of the rest of the circuit. To decrease the voltage transferred to the load, you simply increase the impedance of the rest of the circuit. Or in simple terms increase the resistance of the electrical comonents of the gun.
The suggestions in my post above would still hold, simply place a resistor in series with the rest of the circuit would do the trick, the only problem is that the size of the resistor is dependant on the electrical impedances of the gun, which would need to be measured, unless someone knows ballpark values.
The diode would be interesting becasuse in theory you would have the same current with less voltage, and if memory serves, for a DC motor voltage controls torque and current controls speed. so theoretically you would have the ROF of an 11.1v battery with the torque of a 9.7 volt one.
Last edited by Rommel315 : 05-21-2007 at 04:52 PM.
yea basically the answer is yes, you can do it, but you are probably better off getting a different battery.
oh, and disregard my last little line about the diode and the ROF, i did some calculations at home and I dont know what I was thinking when I wrote it.
how is this Elite 1500 2/3A for a battery? is it ok to use in my tm m4? all i have is a little wall charger that i got with the gun. output is 12v dc @ 200ma. will that be ok to charge this battery? help....
More than the brand (and I only say this because I trust the brands that cheapbatterypacks carry) - make sure the size will fit your AEG (if I am not mistaken I've read you have an M4) and have decent mAh size. mAh being a measure of how long your battery will last, the higher the better.
That being said, the pack you are pointing out should be fine if you keep your AEG stock and occasionally take your finger off the trigger. Having a backup will always be good.
I think you will do well to take a dedicated charger that has some auto cutoff feature. CBP carries some affordable ones.
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Piggy backing on VS's question about how far through the day will we have a chance to recharge, I have a 9.6v110mah in a tm mp5 w/systema motor, so I figure it should die partly through the day, I have a smart charger so I'll only need maybe twenty minutes
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Has anyone ever taken batteries not intended for airsoft, and wired the correct connector onto it? Say, if I picked up an 8.4v 5000mAH Portable DVD Player Battery.
Charger
