I have had several people ask me about the fan that I installed on my ESS Striker Goggles. I have been very pleased with the way it has been working so I thought it worthy of a write up.
You will need the following items in order to do this mod:
1) ESS Striker Series Goggles.
Available from this eBay seller or from your favorite Airsoft store.
2) Mini 12V fan.
Available from this eBay seller
3) 9V Battery Clip. Came with my fan, or RadioShack
4) SPST Switch (or DPST using 2 posts only). RadioShack
5) 22ga stranded wire (red and black). RadioShack
6) Soldering iron and solder
7) Heat shrink tubing
8) #2-56 hardware (Machine screws, washers, and nuts)
9) Tyraps
10) Silicone RTV (or Marine Goop)
11) Basic tools like a wire stripper, wire cutters, and Xacto knife
12) Patience
Gather up all of your supplies before beginning the mod. Clean off an area of your work bench so you aren't working on top of all your other projects. Make it easy on yourself.
Remove the goggles lens so you don't drip solder on it, or get flux spatter on it.
Place the fan on the top of the goggles, in the center, and mark the area it covers. Remove a circular area in the center with the Xacto knife. Do not cut out a square shape since you need to use two of the vent holes in the top of the goggle for mounting the fan. See below:
You will notice in the photo above, that I have attached the fan to the goggle using the hardware mentioned. Also, I have run a thin bead of Silicone RTV around the edges to glue the fan to the goggle. You can also use marine goop if you don't have any RTV. Don't get any of the glue on the fan blades!
CLICK HERE FOR ANOTHER PHOTO
I had also determined the direction of airflow by mocking up the wiring, just to be sure. There is an arrow indicating airflow direction, but I don't trust anyone! I wanted the air to blow OUT of the goggles so it is mounted accordingly. This fan is not reversible by switching the wires so OUT is my only option.
Next, I attached about 6" of wire to each of the existing fan wires. I then added shrink tubing to cover the solder joints.
Next, run the wires out the side of the goggle through one of the vent holes. I used the tyraps to hold the wires in place along the inside top edge of the goggles. They are not visible from the inside or from the front looking in. They tuck in nicely along the top edge.
Use plenty of tyraps so you don't accidentally pull on the wires in the future. Not to mention it looks more tidy this way.
Now, on to wiring the switch.
I used a DPST (Double Pole, Single Throw) Slide switch. I am only using the center, and one outer post. You might want to use a SPST (Single Pole, Single Throw) switch. A locking push button, or toggle switch would work equally well. Use what you have, or what your local Radio Shack can provide you. You can also order from
www.digikey.com if you wish. They have everything (except the goggles) for this mod. You will also have to figure out where to mount the switch you decide to use. Don't just let it dangle, or the solder joints won't last. After determining where the switch will mount, cut the wires to length and strip a bit of insulation off the end of each wire. Tin the stripped ends to make it easier to solder.
The wiring is simple, as shown in the photo below. You will notice that I trimmed one post off the end of my switch. If you use a SPST, you will use both posts, as there are only two on that type of switch.
Don't forget to slide the shrink tube onto the wires before soldering them, otherwise you'll be desoldering the wires and redoing your work. Plan ahead!
Lastly, mount the switch to the battery. I used a pair of tyraps to pull it tightly against the battery. I also wrapped the battery in electrical tape first to give the switch something to bite into. Not to mention a wrapped battery looks better than a duracell hanging on the side of your head!
Lastly,
fasten the battery to the goggle strap and you're done!
I have no idea how long the battery will last using this fan, but I do know that I've got about 7 hours of fan run time on this battery, and it is still going strong. I have an extra battery in my field bag, along with tyraps, so I could change the battery in about 5 minutes. Not a simple plug and play battery swap, but still plenty quick to do at the field.
I have used this set-up three times thus far and have been super pleased with the results. I wear prescription glasses under the goggles and they are certainly prone to fogging even using anti-fog spray. With this fan set-up, I simply switch on the fan and any fogging is gone in 30-60 seconds. I've read several places that say leave the fan running to prevent the fogging, but this is so effective, that I just use it as needed. I think I'm paranoid that the battery is going to die in the middle of a game so I don't use it 100% of the time. I'm anxious to see just how long it will last! I also have a small 11.1V LiPo pack that I am considering using. That thing should run this fan for WAY longer than a standard 9V, not to mention at a higher RPM.
At the Poco Loco game where we had the hail and rain, this setup performed awesome! Most players were complaining about the fogging, but my goggles were nice and clear, even though we were all soaking wet.
So, if you are handy with a soldering iron, and have $30 to spend (on the goggles and the fan) you can make a setup like this for yourself.
Good luck with it, and let me know what you think.
ESS Striker Series Goggle Fan Modification
