Location: Philadelphia (west and southwest to be specific)
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That's a good idea. I'm still thinking up the CAW launcher I'm running into some design issues as far as the frame and revolving function. If there was a way the add more distance between and trigger and the pin of a caulking gun it would be easy as pie more or less.
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Meeeeee! I have an idea for the caw. You could get some kind of big outer tube than put the smaller pieces of 1 1/2 PVC inside of it. The revolving function would be hard though considering it can't be continuously revolving and must revolve the correct distance from grenade to grenade. You could try basing it off of a cap gun revolver. Than just make it bigger.
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Location: Philadelphia (west and southwest to be specific)
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The problem with the revolver isn't the revolving function surprinsingly, it's the trigger and the design needed. The standard caulking gun doesnt allow to the cylander holding the shells to be placed.
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Location: Philadelphia (west and southwest to be specific)
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Hey so I'm here after the whole project is done to tell everyone it works fine and flawlessly. I really would like to build a body or housing for the back area where the pin is. I wanted to use metal but I don't know where I can find a metal box that size (couldn't find a fuse box the right size or that was even cut able) So do you think wood would suffice? I was going to build a wooden box around it and then put it all together with L brackets and then ductape it after filling the inside with a foam of some sort to absorb any impact. Anyone have any opinions?
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"History will be kind to me, for I intend to write it."
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Hey I just put up a tutorial on how to make my nade launcher, like tacticalassin asked for. It's pretty easy, and is probably one of the better looking home made versions you can build
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Location: Philadelphia (west and southwest to be specific)
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Thanks for that link his launchers are really good and look very well built and function well. However they arent scrap like he say's. His badger and badger cub are clearly built from previously owned and dismantled guns. Either that or he has his own woodshop class. However...He did give me a new idea for a base for our projects that might possibly help our function and build quailty...nerf guns. I'll have to look deeper into the matter but I think it's possible.
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Ok, I'll look into it to considering in the two years of not being allowed to airsoft I got pretty into modding nerf guns. So far from what I know there is no gun that you pull the trigger and it moves a pin forward, unless you are talking about modding the firing mechanism that way. I know usually though that the trigger is perminantely attached to the gun by a washer type thing. I have been thinking about taking Acrazypenguin's wood idea, carving out a certain area, than Making some kind of spring trigger system were you pull the trigger which inside of the gun is attached to A spring nestled inside a little hollowed out part attached to the trigger assembly and than the firing pin comes out of the top of the gun. So basically you pull the trigger, which compresses the spring and makes the firing pin move forward and launch off the grenade, than you let go and the spring puts the trigger back into the firing position.
__________________ I am always on your team
Yaaarrg, I be a pirate!
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Location: Philadelphia (west and southwest to be specific)
Posts: 759
Will post tut on this one and the previous 2 once I have some free time, I'm gonna be held up at work for the next 3 days. Also for the one i'm doing now...I hope you have a good saw and workbench because its being a pain in my ass.
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Location: Philadelphia (west and southwest to be specific)
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All parts are cut and will be assembled tommorow around 8ish with pics to follow. Stay posted. Oh this is going to be a model 1887 grenade launcher like tactical suggested.
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Location: Philadelphia (west and southwest to be specific)
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All done tested and working perfectly. All I have to do is sand down handle and paint.
Now for the tut...
You are going to need...
Long plank of 1/2 inch think plywood
1 1/2 inch pvc pipe
Dremel
Hacksaw
saw (preferably jigsaw)
epoxy
screws
small hinge
On your plywood, draw out a handle that you would feel most comfortable with, drawing something simple is perfectly fine because you can always just carve out and clean it up with a carpenter knife. Draw out 2. When drawing the handle make sure that there is a long front for the barrel to sit on (look at mines if that was confusing.)
Next you have to draw out a trigger. Now this is based more so on the design of your handle as it has to fit inside the 2 pieces. The one thing I can say is that it should have a long front part for striking the pin of your grenade but not crazy long just long enough. (HINT: measure a lot before you cut)
With these 2 pieces and your trigger drill a hole through all 3 for a pin to fit through. Put the trigger to the front of the gun so wen it is pulled it strikes. If the trigger is to short you can do what I did and get a simple key ring and run it through the bottom, It works great surprisingly. Next run the pin through and apply a nut to the other side to keep it in place.
Next take a piece of wood used from all your cutting and place it in the space between your handles with the epoxy and let it set to harden.
Now for the barrel....
Dremel the inside of the barrel so that the grenade fits inside, you may also want to dremel 2 holes on each side the size of your thumb so that you may pull the grenade easier.
Next take your small hinge and attach it the front of the handle. You want it to look like the top right corner or a square. Screw and epoxy this in as this give the best support.
Now for the barrel end I ran into a bit of a problem. The area where my screw SHOULD go is where the grenade goes. So after a lot of frustration I used the ductape on both parts of the hinge. This didn't work to well with the barrel because I didn't use enough epoxy and hot glue sucks ass. So if you are having a similar problem I am going to be using a layer of epoxy to bond the 2 parts then cover the area with epoxy and then wrap tightly in ductape. Any other options would be very appreciated, I'm thing of using a longer thin hinge if I can find and then modify one.
After this you new 1887 should be basically done just sculpt your handle and paint. I'll be drawing my 1887 handle from the MW2 model except the trigger guard, mines doesn't have a guard. I know mines is rough but it works and is the first one the next will be a lot cleaner.
There you go I know the tut is rough just pm if you have any questions about the steps. Have fun and enjoy cqb grenades =). I already have my loadout for jailbreak set up just need 4 more grenades...yup I said it haha
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"When you have to kill a man, it costs nothing to be polite."
