Hey, I'm having an issue with a TM VSR10 with a PSS10 Zero Trigger. The sears and springs in the trigger mechanism aren't worn away or malfunctioning, same goes with the .... I forget the term... ridge (?) on the piston. When I pull back the handle, it will catch properly about 50% of the time. It should be noted (I'm unsure if this is normal or not) that the cocking mechanism seems to have a bit of play in its housing, not enough, but it rattles around a bit.
There are two metal blocks attached to the barrel, and the trigger mechanism is attached to those. Can I file down these blocks so that the sear will extend up into the piston area a bit more?
Pull down and out on the bolt..... I had to work on one recently that was doing that if that happens it is time for a PDI reciever..... I mean unless you find a way to shim it down so it catches more effeciently...... But that was the quickest fix to the repair job I did.......
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Cleric, inspect those little plastic rings between your bolt and the receiver, if they are not in place or worn they can cause play in between them that allows the sears not to catch on the piston correctly.
One tip I was given was to replace those rings with a 35mm film canister, cutting it for clearance as needed. The film canister is not only a 'slick" plastic but you can gain more surface area for the bolt to ride on, which may prevent that sloppiness.
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Nik,
Something very similar happened to my Zero Trigger equipped VSR recently. I partially disassembled the rear section of the Zero Trigger, as a setscrew was working itself out and dragging on one of the side plates. That was a "contributing" factor, but ultimately, just something that needed fixed. Check that.
The true problem that I was having was the Laylax metal spring guide began unthreading from the bearing base. When this happens, it obviously gets "longer" as it unthreads. This was causing the piston to bottom out on the spring guide before reaching the piston sear.
The symptoms started off as a difficult to cock bolt, then reached a level where it was impossible to cock.
Completely disassembling the metal spring guide, cleaning out the threads, and using red Loctite solved my issues.
i had this problem as well. makes sure that your trigger assembly is secure against the barrel. i had mine off my like2 centimeters and it wouldn't catch. i dont know if someone mentioned it. just make sure its secured
Hey, sorry for the lack of response, haven't been able to fidget with the gun yet. All of these are great suggestions though, it's good to see that my problem isn't as much of a freak occurrence as I had originally thought it to be. I will return this evening with pictures.
I won't get a chance to fiddle with it in earnest for a little while, but I had enough time to get the thing apart and photographed to see if there is anything glaring. I tried unscrewing the spring guide, but it seems like it might be somehow locked together, I couldn't get it to budge.
From the video, it appears that either there are no plastic cylinder guide rings, or they are worn down. Just like what Jeep said, look down your barrel base and check that they are there and not worn away.
From the video, it appears that either there are no plastic cylinder guide rings, or they are worn down. Just like what Jeep said, look down your barrel base and check that they are there and not worn away.
Ding ding ding.
Seeing that video shows exactly what it looks like when you forget to install those cylinder guide rings.
If it's a VSR they are white rings, one at the front where the barrel threads into the receiver, and one at the rear. If it's a BAR-10, they are black rings.
If you have lost the rings, you can use a properly sized and lubricated O-Ring. Sorry, I don't know the size, but I know that can be done.
Noobies BAR 10 project about one-fifth the way down the 1st page of the thread he describes using 35mm film canisters as CYLINDER GUIDE RING "SLEEVE" and the benefits of using it. This http://www.noobiesairsoft.com/ has custom BAR10-VSR10 parts, that may interest you.
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You guys are incredible, I'll give the 35mm canister thing a go today, I'm sure I have one or two of those hanging around somewhere. I had also come across this, but since previously I was focused on the hop-up chamber part, I had overlooked it.
I'll also take a closer look and see if the front cylinder guide ring is still there as well. If my problems persist I will look into filing the barrel down a bit to get that sear a tad higher. You can see it doesn't sit perfectly onto the barrel in this picture. Is that sort of thing a negligible gap or is it significant because we are talking about a situation dependent on millimters?
I'm really not recalling any gap under my Zero Trig, or the M-Trigger in Jandy's gun. If the brass blocks in the Zero Trig are sitting flush with the receiver and the rear receiver, the gap could only be caused by the rear receiver not being tight in the receiver.
Is the rear receiver really loose before you attach the trigger? It also looks like you replaced the front screw that secures the side plate of the Zero Trig to the forward brass block. That fit isn't sloppy is it?
I'm really not recalling any gap under my Zero Trig, or the M-Trigger in Jandy's gun. If the brass blocks in the Zero Trig are sitting flush with the receiver and the rear receiver, the gap could only be caused by the rear receiver not being tight in the receiver.
Is the rear receiver really loose before you attach the trigger? It also looks like you replaced the front screw that secures the side plate of the Zero Trig to the forward brass block. That fit isn't sloppy is it?
I don't know about 90 degree sear sets, but the 45 degree set in my G-SPEC has a small amount of space between the trigger mechanism and the receiver. It's not a lot of space (probably about 2mm) but there is some space. I thought that was the cause of my slam firing when my gun was broken, but it turned out to be something else, so perhaps this is not the issue.
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Quote P7hk9 "Just do it as a TEAM and not as Master Chief."
