SRC G36 won't fire on semi.

**aAa** · 07-18-2010, 07:05 PM

It all started when I had to press down on my selector switch a little harder then usual at the LVP game today. Once I had done that, my g36 stopped firing on semi completely. Every time I pull the trigger absolutely nothing happens, the motor doesn’t even move. However when I switch to full auto, the gun fires perfectly. I’m taking a shot in the dark and guessing the problem is electrical, but would like to see if anyone could validate or prove this theory of mine wrong for me.
All help and suggestions are highly appreciated.
Thanks,
Alex

All American · 07-19-2010, 01:49 PM

Did you hear anything snap when you pressed down the selector plate? I am thinking that it could be possible that your selector plate broke and is stuck on auto.

**aAa** · 07-19-2010, 02:13 PM

I don't remember hearing any snapping noises when I pushed my selector switch to semi. I just had to press down on it abnormally hard in order to get the switch to move. Although I may not have heard anything, since this did happen at the beginning of a fight at LVP yesterday. I do have some follow up info about the gun though; today I took it out again and got some different results. If I fire on full auto for a little and then switch to semi and hold the trigger down for around 3 seconds, it will fire a single shot. If I continue holding the trigger in semi the time between me pulling the trigger and the gun actually firing will slowly decrease until semi is functioning correctly. However this doesn’t last; if I don’t fire the gun for a few seconds it reverts back and I then have to repeat the steps I listed above for it to work again,. I now have no hypothesis on what could be wrong with it.
Thank you for your input Matt,
Alex

sarin99 · 07-19-2010, 03:49 PM

Disassemble the gun down to the gearbox, and take a look at the selector plate. (it will be on the outside of the GB) I'm thinking it's cracked. A replacement is relatively cheap: http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_inf...oducts_id=3235

Fakeprogress23 · 07-19-2010, 04:06 PM

It sounds to me like you might have some arching on the selector plate contacts. This is easily fixed by taking a light abrasive and sanding off the arched surface (black pocketed area). Try your best to bring the surface back to a mirror polish (a dremel with assorted attachments works best in my experience). Arching is caused when complete, uniform contact between the two pieces of metal is not achieved. It helps to make sure that the brass plate on the bottom of your selector plate is firmly in contact with the two tabs coming out of the gearbox.

Edit: I dont think your selector plate is cracked seeing as you got it to fire in semi. I could be wrong though. Regardless, the problem should be with your selector plate and is an easy fix.

**aAa** · 07-19-2010, 06:23 PM

I just took my gun apart and I think James is correct. As far as I can see there are no signs of the selector plate being cracked and it seems to perform correctly when I switch it from safe, to semi, to full auto. Here are some pics of the selector plate just to make sure it's fine. Sorry, I'm sort of a newb when it comes to internals.

Fakeprogress23 · 07-20-2010, 12:42 PM

Thanks for the pictures Alex. From what I can see, the SRC v3 mechbox setup is slightly different compared to TM. If you could please follow this link, skip to 2:46, follow the rest of the guide and then post pictures of what is under the lower receiver cover that would be fantastic.

When you watch the video, you can see the brass tabs and contact plate I mentioned. For some reason, your setup is lacking those. Looking at your first picture of the gun on safe, it is not apparent that the tabs have sheared off but I can’t be sure. Unfortunately I have never worked on an SRC G36 before so this could be normal. In any case, if you can provide pictures, we should be able to troubleshoot this thing in no time

sarin99 · 07-20-2010, 03:02 PM

http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_i...ducts_id=27870

Based on Evike's pictures, the SRC's selector plate is different from a TM type selector plate. You can't see the contacts.

http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_i...ducts_id=28521

Mike Foxtrot · 07-20-2010, 04:13 PM

I've had a similar problem, but the glueish substance under the switch melted and royally screwed my selector. I don't think my plate suffered any damage, but I never had the balls to open it up. I may have to now that the gun is starting to jam all the time.

**aAa** · 07-20-2010, 07:01 PM

James, I will have the pictures up for you sometime tomorrow afternoon. I would have them up sooner, but I don't really have the time to open up my gun again today

. I would also like to thank everyone who has posted in the thread so far for your help.
Thanks again,
Alex

Fakeprogress23 · 07-21-2010, 09:35 AM

Alex, take your time, there is no rush. Also, thanks for those links Mike, good info.

**Maverick** · 07-25-2010, 10:41 AM

Some brands don't put the clip on the selector plate. Echo1 in particular. What Echo does is solder the two prongs that the selector plate touches. Some brands also eliminate the clip on the selector plate, and make the two prongs on the wire harness one whole piece. I don't think thats the problem. The moving contact in your wire harness might be damaged, or your cut off lever might be misaligned and isn't knocking the contact back like it should on semi. Sometimes the metal part of the trigger assembly doesnt fully push the moving contact back and that might be why its not engaging in semi auto. All in all if you are still having issues I suggest bringing it to me or Old Mans.