Hi everybody... I've wanted to pick up a sniper rifle for a long time and after playing last Saturday, I finally am going to to. I've found a used VSR that has the following upgrades:
KM 430mm 6.04mm Precision barrel.
SP150 spring
All PDI sears
Laylax stainless spring guide
Laylax stainless spring guide stopper
Laylax stainless cylinder head (comes uninstalled, couldn't get it to thread into cylinder)
Yes, that piston will work with the stock trigger (It's a 45 degree piston). The SP150 (Laylax PSS150) has my VSR shooting in the mid 490's with the teflon cylinder and 6.01x554mm barrel. The 430 barrel will shoot somewhat less than that, maybe in the 470's.
I would certianly recommend a new piston when shooting that fast. The original plastic one may be short for this world at that velocity.
Good call on the barrely spacers. If the TM bucking is in good shape, keep it. It's top notch already.
I'm not sure why the couldn't thread the Laylax cylinder head into the stock cylinder. Should go right in. Make sure you wrap the threads with teflon tape before installing the cylinder head.
Decide now if you ever want a V or Z trigger as they use proprietary pistons. If you are sticking with the factory style trigger, a red laylax piston is decent.
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I'm not sure why the couldn't thread the Laylax cylinder head into the stock cylinder. Should go right in. Make sure you wrap the threads with teflon tape before installing the cylinder head.
Done it before(to a lot of rifles)... Works the same as the teflon..
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Sorry I don't really understand your last post Adeluca. Do you mean it works the same as a teflon cylinder?
IT works just as well... Sorry I'm a bit tired Ill elaborate.
The cylinder it self will work for the upgraded head.
Here is all what I've done for power.
Laylax 140 Spring.
Laylax Zero Trig orange piston
Laylax Spring Guide
Laylax Cylinder head.
Laylax Bolt handle
Teflon Tape...
As for Accuracy
Pdi 554.
TM bucking.
TM Upgraded Chamber
Barrel Spacers.
Thats most of my build.
Anymore questions or comments do so ask.. I can try to help to the best extent without the gun in front of me.
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Alright, another question. I disassembled my VSR today, and tried to reassemble it. The middle allen screw wouldn't go in quite right so I pulled it apart. When I pulled the stock away from the barrel/bolt/etc the trigger guard popped out along with a small hollow plastic tube. I tried putting the trigger guard back on, and it seems to kind of pop right in, but the gun won't reassemble properly. Without the trigger guard in though, the gun will assemble fine.
Alright, another question. I disassembled my VSR today, and tried to reassemble it. The middle allen screw wouldn't go in quite right so I pulled it apart. When I pulled the stock away from the barrel/bolt/etc the trigger guard popped out along with a small hollow plastic tube. I tried putting the trigger guard back on, and it seems to kind of pop right in, but the gun won't reassemble properly. Without the trigger guard in though, the gun will assemble fine.
Take it to the Wal-Mart of Airsoft's Headquarters. (Steve's house). He WILL be able to fix it, and somehow make it better doing so.
If I can't fix it by Saturday I guess I'll have to have someone help me out...
What spring should I get if I'm going for around 450-495? My gun supposedly has a 150 spring in it, but only chronos around 405. The Element M145 seems perfect.
If I can't fix it by Saturday I guess I'll have to have someone help me out...
What spring should I get if I'm going for around 450-495? My gun supposedly has a 150 spring in it, but only chronos around 405. The Element M145 seems perfect.
Get a 170, and that should do it I think. Also, if you want to take the chance I can look at your rifle for you. But remember, that would be taking a chance.
I can get a picture in a couple days. I now can assemble the rifle with the trigger guard... however I must put the trigger guard on the trigger and then put it in the stock. Which works fine, however everytime I take it apart the trigger guard will pop out.
I can get a picture in a couple days. I now can assemble the rifle with the trigger guard... however I must put the trigger guard on the trigger and then put it in the stock. Which works fine, however everytime I take it apart the trigger guard will pop out.
And Patrick do you mean a PDI 170% spring?
For whatever this is worth, I've always had to put my trigger guard on prior to setting the receiver in the stock.
What other upgrades are you running? I apologize, I've used only Laylax in my gun [save for the barrel] so I'm a bit unfamiliar with what a PDI 170 spring should typically yield.
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I've got:
KM 430mm 6.04mm Precision barrel.
150 spring
All PDI sears
Laylax stainless spring guide
Laylax stainless spring guide stopper
Laylax silent piston
Barrel Spacers (built into the outside barrel?)
I will also soon install:
Laylax dampeners
Laylax cylinder head
New spring
and possibly a teflon cylinder
I apologize, man. I didn't realize that they were the same ones listed in your first thread. I'm good like that
I would say if the majority of upgrades are all Laylax, than stick with Laylax for a spring as well. To reiterate what Steve said, a Laylax SP150 is a decent spring. I have a PDI 430 6.01 in my gun right now and with a Laylax 150 I'm shooting consistently between 475-480FPS. Also, for whatever it's worth, with your reinforced sears you should be fine on a 150; I've run a 170 on mine and never had a problem with the trigger pull or the integrity of the sears. I still have yet to put a zero trigger in my gun
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Cam,
You can fill the stock with expanding foam to help quite it down. I didn't do this to mine since it's quite enough for me. Be careful if you do this, since the expanding foam can split the stock, or make it bulge if you use too much, or the wrong kind. Get the kind that doesn't expand a lot. They make some specifically for light expansion. I believe it's used primarily for window jams. Get it at Lowes or Home Depot.
You can also wrap a small strip of electrical tape tightly around the last two coils on the end of the spring. This helps quiet the "sproing" sound that the spring makes when it jingles inside the piston after firing.
Can't edit... Only place I could find dampeners and the spring in stock was Dentrinity, highly doubt I'll have my stuff by Saturday but oh well.
I have an extra set of dampeners that I'll give you on Saturday if you'll be at LP. I just got a set of them a few weeks back, and I currently don't need all three:] A set is yours for the taking if you want it. I can throw them in for you as well [I'll have some tools on me].
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Last Saturday, Steve mentioned I was missing the screw to hold the outer barrel assembly in place. In result, this causes BBs to curve left/right if it's not on perfectly straight. Anyone have an extra one or know where to find one of these.
Last Saturday, Steve mentioned I was missing the screw to hold the outer barrel assembly in place. In result, this causes BBs to curve left/right if it's not on perfectly straight. Anyone have an extra one or know where to find one of these.
If somebody could tell you the dimensions of the screw, you could probably find it at any hardware store.
Last Saturday, Steve mentioned I was missing the screw to hold the outer barrel assembly in place. In result, this causes BBs to curve left/right if it's not on perfectly straight. Anyone have an extra one or know where to find one of these.
I'll look through my parts in my tool box; I think I have an extra one or two laying around.
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Cam, is it the small screw that goes into the receiver after the outer barrel is in place, or is it one of the screws that attaches part #10 to the hop up unit?
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It's the one that threads through the receiver and engages the hole in the outer barrel, preventing it from turning.
Ok, that was what I originally thought, but I just wanted to be certain. A screw that 1/4 inch wouldn't do much good, then.
When I get off of work, I'll go through my parts. Like I said, I'm almost positive that I have a few of them somewhere.
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That picture isn't where the missing screw goes. That's a picture of one of the trigger screw holes. The second photo in that group DOES show where the screw goes.
Silly Cameron.
The first picture is of the mag retainer. It goes under that wad of tape that the previous owner had holding it in place.
For that little spring and bit of plastic, do you mean part of the magazine catch? That's the only place I remember tape (specifically scotch tape holding the spring in).
I just took it (mag catch) apart, and watched a video on how to reassemble it. I already have a spring in there though, that little one cannot fit anyway.
I think it has to be part of the hop up unit because after reassembling, my hop-up adjuster no longer 'clicks.' Too dark to see if the hop is still working correctly.
My bolt pull is also quite atrocious, especially pushing it back forward. Do I just grease the outside of the cylinder to fix that?
That piece goes inside the part of the arm in the hop up unit. Mine fell out once and I hadn't the foggiest idea where it came from for the longest time. I'm trying to think of how to describe it....
You know the two black plastic pieces that fit around the barrel at the front of the hop up unit [the ones that slide back and forth]? It goes inside the one that the adjustment toggle attaches to. When everything is assembled, it's the piece that makes that tiny clicking sound when you're dialing your hop up. If that doesn't make sense, I'll take a picture tomorrow while I'm installing a new bucking on my VSR.
Sorry to double post, but I forgot to mention that I couldn't find that particular screw anywhere... Sorry man, I was sure I had one.
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Last edited by fightingirish : 08-12-2010 at 11:06 PM.
Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Yea that little bugger in the first picture is the one that always try to escape when you take the bottom hop up arm off. I thought I lost that thing a couple times but luckly it always turns up somewhere.
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Drew and Ed are absolutely right. That spring and plastic doo-dad is from inside the hop chamber. There is a ribbed section inside the hop chamber that the doo-dad presses against. The spring engages a plastic piece that creates the BB stop that allows one BB at a time inside the chamber.
Hope that helps!
Okay, got my Laylax 150SP and cylinder head today. The cylinder head cannot thread into the cylinder, the threads are way too short. The spring is at least an inch longer than my current one, but I can get the stock cylinder head in fine. However when I try and put the spring guide stopper in with the new spring, it can't go the final bit.
Your spring is longer because the old one is compressed a good bit. The bit about the cylinder head is odd, though. I've never had that problem before. I'll do a bit of research and see what comes up.
With the spring guide stopper, you should set that before you put the cylinder head back on, which increases the tension on the spring. If that doesn't work let me know.
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He WILL be able to fix it, and somehow make it better doing so.
